I have been asked a few times if my quick release setup had any free play. While I have never noticed any play before upon further inspection I noticed that I did in fact have some free play. Check out my video to see my findings.
Check out the Low Income Tuner youtube channel.
This will be a quick write up for you guys who replaced your steering wheels and are left with a SRS warning light (airbag light).
As always disconnect your battery and let the system discharge before you start working with the airbag system.
You’re going to need to put a resistor inline with your airbag connector. The resistance you want is about 3.3ohms. This resistance value wasn’t available at my local RadioShack so I had to get 3 10ohm 1/4 watt resistors and wire them up in parallel.
You want three… Not two.
Solder the resistors to some wire at each end. I stripped the ends and added some solder to make a solid end to plug into the connector. Later I used heat shrink to protect the resistors.
These resistors need to plug into your yellow airbag connector.
Same plug as this one, but under your dash. Plug the wires into the two smaller openings up top. Secure it with same electrical tape and zip ties and test for your results once the battery is reconnected.
Now that your steering wheel hub is installed you can go ahead and install your steering wheel or in my case a quick release adapter and then my steering wheel.
With the quick release side to side with your hub you will notice you only have one wire from the hub and two on the quick release. The wire on the hub is power coming from your horn and the other wire will be ground.
You will need to find out which wire from the clock spring connector is associated to your horn. In my case it’s the one on the far left. (2000 Toyota Celica)
It’s the yellow wire coming off the horn pad.
Cut this wire and extend it if needed. Add a ring terminal too it.
You will need a piece off brass to connect the ring terminal to with a screw and small nut. I got a piece of brass from a hobby store and drilled a few holes in it and later cut and bent it into my desired shape.
Find a place to mount this so that the end of the brass piece is making contact with the brass ring on the back side of the hub. When I installed this I used some dielectric grease. On the backside of the hub for smoother operation.
Now run you will have to add a ground… I used another small screw and bolt (not pictured) on the hub to make ground. I used a piece of wire, a ring terminal and a male spade connector.
Connect these to your quick release accordingly. In my case coming from the hub; black is power and pink is ground.
Now go ahead and bolt in your quick release. Six Allen head bolts.
Next you will connect the horn wires to the other part of the quick release and secure that piece to your steering wheel.
Now your ready to go, quick releasing like a boss… Except for one minor detail. Your air bag light is one. Stay tuned for the next write up.
When installing an aftermarket steering wheel the first thing you are going to do is disconnect your battery. Anytime you are working on electrical or around the airbag system of a vehicle you want to be sure there is no power running through these components. Let the vehicle sit with the battery disconnected for about 15 minutes. Take this time to gather some tools. In y case I needed the following…
Phillips screwdriver small and medium
Ratchet and extension
This particular steering wheel has two torx screws at its sides. One by the cruise control lever and one on the opposite side.
Removing these will allow you to remove the horn pad and airbag if your vehicle is equipped.
Once you remove the horn pad you will see some connectors. Go ahead and disconnect these. Disconnect the horn pad entirely from all wiring and safely set it aside. Always be careful when handling an airbag.
One some vehicles removing the steering column cover will give you better access. Just turn the steering wheel side to side to expose these screws. This one has one at each side and one underneath.
With the horn pad out of the way you will see the 21mm nut holding the steering wheel to the steering column.
Remove the 21mm nut.
Gently wiggle the steering wheel side to side and up and down to free the wheel from the steering column.
With your steering wheel off you will see a thick black ring with yellow connectors and decals. This is your clock spring. Unplug all connectors. Remove this and set it aside as you won’t be needing it anymore.
There is one clip holding it to your steering column seen in the picture below.
With the clock spring removed you can now begin to install your momo hub. The hub should come with a sheet listing torque specifications for your particular make and model. Mine requires 35 ft lbs of torque to reinstall the 21mm nut to hold the momo hub.
If your car is equipped with a locking steering wheel, locking the wheel into place will make torquing down the 21mm but much easier.
Once the hub is install you can reinstall your steering column trim pieces. I took the liberty to do some cleaning while the trim pieces were off.
I found this cool toy blog while searching for hotwheels, so i figure I would share it with you guys seeing as how their is a celica involved 😉
Name: Toyota Celica GT-S
Price: Rs 89
The Toyota Celica name has been applied to a series of coupes made by the Japanese company Toyota. The name is ultimately derived from the Latin word coelica meaning “heavenly” or “celestial”.
The Toyota Celica GTS belongs to the seventh generation T230 series of Celica (1999-2006). This is a 3 door liftback/hatchback with an FF (front-engine, front-wheel drive) layout. It boasts of a more sportier look (hence the “S” in the name)
The 2000 model year Celica was an element of Toyota “Project Genesis”, an effort to bring younger buyers to the marque in the United States. Toyota wanted to appeal to the same buyers of the Acura Integra and Honda Civic. Toyota took time to lighten the car and lower cost whenever possible.
Power window and door lock controls were placed in the center console so…
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